Day 13 (4/4)

Today (i.e. yesterday) was a ‘mellow’ day. We got a relaxed start under sunny skies as we departed Huaraz…cruised up and over a 13,800 foot pass and gradually descended to the coast over the next 50 or so miles, (to the ‘desierto costero’ region) had a relaxed lunch at very nice local restaurant on the way and ended our day at around 3:30 on the beach in the small coastal village of ‘La Gramita’, sipping beers and facing a gorgeously prepared plate of Ceviche, (how’s that for a ‘run-on’ sentence 🙂 ). We ended up pitching our tents on the beach in front of the restaurant and enjoyed a good nights sleep to the sound of the surf.

All of our riding today was on pavement, which made it that much more relaxed. The road itself was a pleasure to ride, full of turns from beginning to end, through what continues to be an amazing landscape. It was the type of road that you could ride aggressively and have a lot of fun. As you will see from the photo’s though, any enthusiasm we had to push the pace was tempered by the endless series of landslides that left rocks and debris on the road throughout the first 2/3rds of the ride. Come around a turn that appears clear and suddenly you’re confronted fallen rocks that reduce the road to one lane, if not less. After a few of these encounters you are best advised to adjust accordingly and we did. (See Claudio’s entry for today for his reflection on this phenomenon).

I suspect some of you may be wondering… “How are you and Claudio getting along? Spending that much time together must be a real challenge.” Truth of the matter is we’re getting along great. As many of you are aware, this is not our first time traveling together on an extended journey and so we pretty much know what we’re getting ourselves into. Start with the fact that we both share a common passion/love of riding motorcycles and, more specifically, exploring foreign and/or remote locations on motorcycles. As riders, we are also very evenly matched in terms of our skills and our pace… Claudio, being the superior rider in the dirt, and I, being the superior rider on the pavement, but the differences on either end are relatively minor and so on either surface we are both very comfortable keeping pace with each other. We are also matched well in terms of our endurance. Again, Claudio has an inclination to keep going, which I’m fully capable of doing as well, but over time we’ve struck a balance (exhibit a. – the fact that we are taking a rest day on this trip every 6-7 days, and exhibit b, his willingness to accommodate my frequent stops to take pictures). 

When we’re off the motorcycles, we’ve managed to strike an easy rapport. We share a common curiosity and empathy towards the people and places we encounter. As you can no doubt tell from Claudio’s daily entries, he tends to find greater meaning than perhaps I do, and no doubt considers our experience at greater depth. I suppose my contribution is bringing a bit more objectivity and, at my best, I believe I counter Claudio’s tendency towards reflection with my own tendency towards levity. Point being we balance each other well. It also that case that we respect each other’s independence and are good at giving each other space. 

Interestingly, despite the fact that we are spending 5-8 hours a day in the saddle riding together, during that time we are very much in our own space. While we’re on the same road and traveling through the same space, each is occupied with our own thoughts, reactions, reflections to what we’re seeing and feeling. When we stop to take a break, it is in part to sustain ourselves, but we also both look forward to the opportunity to share and compare what we’ve just seen or to share the experience of taking in where we are at that moment. Again, the word ‘balance’ comes to mind.

Another factor contributing to our ability to get along over such a sustained period is our ability to communicate. Over time, we’ve gotten pretty good at sensing when there is tension developing and to addressing it pretty immediately and pretty directly. So, with all that said, I can say that as of this point in the ride that we’re getting along very well and we both have confidence that given current ‘course and speed’ that it will continue through the remainder of the ride. (NOTE: This description has been reviewed and approved by Claudio 🙂 )

---

From Claudio

Landslides 

As if a giant trespasser stepped on the mountain slopes causing landslide after landslide scattering broken boulders, rocks, dirt on the road for a few kilometers and then disappeared. Hard-hatted, yellow-vested miniature men, armed with wheelbarrows and shovels pursued the giant on her path of playful destruction. They were no match for the colossus who devilishly trampled around farther down the road and knocked a few more hillsides. Luckily, thus far, we have been spared the misfortune of being flattened by the mercurial antics of the abrasive leviathan.

---

---

Scenes from the morning…

---

To my surprise I ended up capturing this sequence of images of this woman. We came around a hairpin turn and there she was on the road with her collection of 8-10 cattle. I shot the first picture and was gathering myself to take off. I decided to take one more look only to find her in the process of washing her hair in the rain runoff in the trench on the side of the road.

---

The Coast