Day 22 (4/15)

Not a whole lot to report from today. It was effectively a ‘transit’ day to the city of Arequipa and unfortunately the roads, while not quite as bad as those we ended on yesterday, continued for the better part of the 93 miles we covered. We had a brief 20 mile or so section of pavement, but otherwise were on broad dirt roads resplendent with potholes, washboard and today we added sections of sand, which was actually a relief. At least it is smooth, and for stretches we were actually seeking it out along the edges of the dirt roads to get some relief from the pounding. 

As for scenery today, the highlight occurred on the final approach to Arequipa. As we made our way due south over the final 35 miles or so we were flanked on our right by a set of 19,000 foot peaks (Angel and Fatima peaks) and on our left by the Misti Volcano also topping out at around 19,000 feet. You’ll get a sense from the brief video clip I included below of the view from one side to the other as we climbed towards the pass to Arequipa.

Otherwise, not a whole lot to report. Ah yes, there is the icebox that we spent the night in. As Claudio captured in his “Hotelling” passage from yesterday, our accommodations have varied considerably along our journey. Last night was a low point. A windowless concrete room with a couple of feet between beds that was f*&^king freezing. I made the choice of getting my down sleeping bag out, which was a very good decision. When we got up this morning, Claudio made coffee which helped, but beyond that it was all we could do to get ourselves dressed, packed and get our gear out on the sidewalk under the warming rays of the bright morning sun.

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From Claudio

Dream

Perched, as if with claws, on an impossibly steep mountainside, a hamlet defies gravity and sense. I fear the hand of a storm could sweep it away. A thin ribbon of a road meanders in and out of the broken topography, entering the caserio and disappearing. Passing through it is like a dream, capricious, sudden, startling. 

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